Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Weekend of April 12-13: Horse Creek and the Broad River

Saturday, April 12 and Sunday, April 13 – Horse Creek (SC) and Broad River (GA) – So, I started this blog to write about my experiences kayaking various bodies of water. If you’re familiar with Aiken/Augusta, you know there are a few choices, but I feel it is pretty limited. You have the Savannah River that has different sections and areas just off it (Betty’s Branch, from the Steven’s Creek dam down, from the next lock and dam down), Langley Pond, the Edisto River (take your pick on the number of sections), Horse Creek and some other streams, creeks and ponds. Again, that’s a very small, consolidated list because there are sections of each and parks on a few that you can do small trips in to give you a variety.

I tell you this to set up an idea. One thing that my dad is doing is working on paddling the entire length of the Edisto River, but in chunks. He doesn’t really have the time right now to start at the beginning and go all the way down to the coast because that takes about a week. But that is definitely on my bucket list. Well, I have wanted to do something similar, only with Horse Creek.

Now, before writing this I thought I had done almost all of Horse Creek and that it started around Graniteville and made its way down to the Savannah… boy am I wrong. Upon further research, I see that Horse Creek actually starts up near Edgefield, comes south under I-20 and continues down to where it meets the Savannah. Guess I have more paddling to do than I originally thought… and some of that won’t be as well taken care of as just south and west of Graniteville, I’m sure.



Anyways, I have already done two of the bigger, more traversed sections before, and one is actually a normal paddle for me. The main section is a trail that Aiken County seems to have worked on to be more inviting and can be seen in orange (not I-520) on the map above. You put in just below the Langley Pond Dam and float/paddle down into Clearwater where you take out at Harrison-Caver Park. At one time, there were docks and boardwalks at the put-in and take-out spots to make it easier to launch and land, but something happened and the county took it all away (and I mean it ALL away. They spent all that money on building nice boardwalks and docks just to rip it out and do lord knows what with it). But apparently now they’ve put up signs, but still haven’t fixed the best ways to put in and take out (good job Aiken County).

Anyways, there is that section then, there is the section above Langley Pond that I have also done (It's in a bright green). My dad, a friend of ours from church and I put in at the 2nd Street Bridge in Graniteville a few years ago and then made our way all the way down to the northern most section of the pond. FYI, if you are not die-hard, willing to get out and walk around areas or scared of snakes, bugs and poison ivy, this section is to be avoided (well, maybe you should just avoid the outdoors all-together during the warmer months in SC). It is not well-maintained and while you can see some cool things while floating through town and even down towards the pond, it can get down right nasty, dirty and dangerous with lots of snags where water moccasins like to hang out.

This first section of the post is actually dedicated to the final leg of Horse Creek: from Harrison-Caver Park down to the Savannah which I have colored red. I had never done this section, but Dad and his buddy Bob have done it a few times, so when Bob got a small group together to do it, I jumped at the opportunity, even if it was starting at 8 AM on a Saturday.

Like most of Horse Creek, it winds it’s way along and has shallow points as well as some deeper ones, but this had to be the most beautiful section I had seen. About an hour into our paddle (I don’t remember exactly where) we came across a snag that required us to swing out wide and just barely squeeze through… but on the branches that made up the snag was a big water moccasin, and I mean big! I’ve had my “run-ins” with these beasties before and have always escaped unscathed; a trend I plan on continuing for quite a while. The thing to remember with snakes, even moccasins, is that they are just as afraid, if not more, of you as you are of them and as long as you don’t make them feel trapped, they will generally leave you alone (although every now and then you find an animal of any kind with a mean streak just out to hurt other beings). So, our group came to a stop and we waited for this creature to make its way across the water to a spot away from us. But I still approached the snag carefully because sometimes where there’s one snake, there’s more. There luckily weren’t any more and we actually didn’t see any more snakes along this trip (doesn’t mean they weren’t there though! So be careful if you try this section).

Notable things along this section of the creek are… well, the nature. Yes, you can hear civilization around at points, including a train from time to time, but it really is remarkable how beautiful it all can be (even if there is a lot of trash here. Seriously, Aiken County, please work on litter control/pickup in the waterways more!).

You can see a lot of cool things along the way including an old bridge that is no longer in use and is mostly rotted out. The bridge is just after passing under, I believe, Atomic Rd. You also pass under Old Storm Branch Rd, but Atomic Rd looks to be the closer section if I remember correctly. And there is another bridge near here that I think is purely used by the waste-treatment facility near by because it isn’t on any maps. Yes, I just mentioned waste treatment facility and some of y’all are probably going, “GROSS!” It has a slight odor to it, but it wasn’t overbearing that day and this was actually the section that had the best scenery. I’m guessing there is a direct correlation to the waste and good soil. Hey, we use cow manure to fertilize fields. I’m just sayin’.

Another interesting thing to look out for on this stretch are the birds, the hundreds of turtles, the occasional deer and… alligators. Yep. Augusta and Aiken have alligators, people. Seen a fair share and even paddled near one on the river. But, again, as long as you leave them alone, they’ll leave you alone. Or may get curious and check you out from a distance. We did happen to come up on one on Saturday and we both scared each other to where I’m pretty sure there was a little extra water in my boat that I didn’t start the day with… and I wear a spray skirt so I’ll let you figure out how it got in there. I cam up to another section with a downed tree that was going to require me to swing out wide and I just caught a glimpse of him and he went to thrashing and a mad dash to get away. I didn’t really have that effect on the gators in the Okefenokee, but I’m guessing this guy wasn’t used to seeing humans out there.

Two other things that I found interesting: one was the tree growth. Some of the cypress and other evergreen trees grew HUGE. It’s great to see fairly untouched areas that allow you to see how big some of them can get. The other thing is the water level. We have gotten quite a bit of rain recently (thank you!) and it looked like, from what Bob and I could tell, the water had actually gotten up maybe another 4 feet or so at some sections. That, to me, was amazing. But, I have seen Horse Creek overflow its banks down in the valley a few times, so it’s not unbelievable.

Like I said, Horse Creek pops out on the Savannah just south of where 520 passes over the river and this was where I had the most trouble. My little creek boat, with a flat bottom, was perfect for navigating the twists and turns of the creek, but in open water, it was a struggle. But you can paddle up stream and take out at the Augusta Rowing Club launch with little-to-no problem. So, there you go. Plan accordingly if you wish to tackle this section.

 -------------

Now, for the slightly more exciting trip: Broad River in Georgia. Kind of like most rivers and creeks around the south, this river makes its way a looooong distance. It appears to start up in the mountains of northeast Georgia (maybe even Tennessee) and winds down into the Savannah River north of Strom Thurmond Lake. Like the Edisto, it has a north and south fork and my group did the north fork near Danielsville, GA, northeast of Athens.


Now, I have included a map of this section of the river with four dots and will reference certain times in my YouTube video (Found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uk_zvE3Q6No) I recorded with two GoPro cameras so you can get a better idea of everything going on. Obviously, the put-in and take-out areas are labeled and have red dots but I also have two orange dots on there if you look closely enough. These mark two of the four more fun areas, but we’ll get there in a bit.

If you are interested, by all means go with the outfitter we used: Broad River Outpost (BRO) - their website is - http://www.broadriveroutpost.com. The place we went to may look a little rickety and suspect, but I can’t remember a single outfitter I’ve been to for whitewater rafting that hasn’t looked this way. But they were really nice, eager to help and you can’t beat the price. If you have your own gear, it’s $5. Yup, $5 to go towards the shuttle (an old, rickety short bus of course. I expect nothing less from a true river excursion) ride from the take-out back to your vehicle. If you need to borrow their boats, (sit-atops that seemed to handle the class I and II rapids very well) paddles and life vests, then it’s $20. Seriously, why don’t more people use these guys?

The section my group did was advertised as about two-and-a-half to four hours long depending on current, water level and how much you decided to play at the different locations. We were able to finish it in about two-and-a-half hours. This included me stopping at one section to play a little longer and because a member of our group decided he really liked to swim more than stay in his boat. So, realistically you could probably make this in two hours or under if you hurry, but why hurry?

It’s in the foothills of northeast Georgia and is absolutely gorgeous. The river is fairly flat so anybody who hasn’t done a lot of kayaking need not fear. It can be quite relaxing for the majority of the paddle, but it does have sections where the fun can start.

Our group that day included Billy (the man with an infatuation and knack for getting wet), Ashleigh (who had done very limited kayaking prior), Josh (who has been along for several excursions around Aiken) and myself.

The four of us took off from BRO’s put-in just off Wildcat Bridge Rd along with a group of, I believe, 8 people from Athens (guys with their girlfriends). BRO has this pretty cool slide that you can use to get yourself and your gear down from their outpost hut to a grassy section just off the river and they also have a similar slide that looks like you put your kayak on, you get in, and then you slide down into the water. Sadly, this second slide was out of order. I was very tempted to use it anways, but wanted to make sure I would be invited back and that it wouldn’t collapse underneath me.

The first section of the river is relatively calm, and has lots of sandbars. Ashleigh found that out the hard way and was stuck on one not 5 minutes into our paddle. Seriously, who invites these people? Just kidding!

Now, you see the first orange dot (the very beginning of the video).


This is about where another group put in and the river has an island. If you go right, like I did, you’ll have a tough time if the water is low. It’s just a side creek. Pretty area, but nothing exciting. BUT it dumps you out right in the first serious rapids of the trip. This is a fun little section that I would encourage you to maybe even do a couple times if you can get to the bank and hike back up because it was fun the day we went and gets your feet wet (pun intended) for what lies ahead.

This is also the first section where Billy bailed on his boat for some reason and boy was it funny (:40 into the video you see a floating Billy). As I was going through, I saw something floating ahead of me and noticed it kind of looked like a floating Billy. I was right and I quickly came up on his submerged kayak. It took some fighting, but I was able to get it over to the bank to wait on Billy. Billy decided to catch a ride with a lady from one of the other groups and, if you know Billy, you know he’s not a small guy. And, from what I can remember, this lady wasn’t small either. I wasn’t able to get video of it, but he looked kind of funny riding behind her on her sit-in kayak… and they flipped! Boy that would have been funny. Sorry, Billy. You know I kid because I care. So, once Billy got down to me, he got back in and we took off. Also, note, Josh and Ashleigh had a tendency to get well ahead of Billy and me the three times he bailed while floating.

After this, there is another fun whitewater area that I was not sure where to locate it on the map (:51 into the video looking forward and 1:09 for looking back at me). I went on through to the left and it was quite fun with a channel made by the rocks. Here, the eight in the group just ahead of our group had decided to get out and the guys were jumping off a large stick stuck into the rocks and jumping into the flow. It looked like a lot of fun. If you’re not pressed for time, I would suggest trying this a couple times.

After this section it was relatively quiet for a while. There were a couple other small rapid sections including a short drop (1:50 – 2:32) but nothing terribly exciting or dangerous… until the second orange dot.


This isn’t a bad spot under normal circumstances, but from time to time, when the river is up and the flow is moving along, it can get treacherous. But this second dot marks a small waterfall. I found a picture of it on Google from BRO’s website and this is about what it looked like the day I went.


As you can see in the picture and somewhat in the video (3:30-3:36), there are two distinct sections and actually a third one. The farthest one, on the right of the picture and left as you are going down it, is a fun slide. The middle section, is about a 3-5 foot drop depending on the day and then not pictured, but on the left is another drop that I was told can be dangerous due to the flow of water and some rocks.

Anyways, we came down on this section and you can see there is an island. To the left as you are going down the river is a choppy area that is fun but filled with rocks. To the right leads you to the falls. I did the fall once and then the slide once while Billy gave the slide a try. By the way, this is a point where Billy bailed not once, but twice. Sorry, Billy. But I highly recommend staying here a while because if you are able to paddle strong, you can make your way back up to try this section multiple times and it is SO much fun. This, alone, is worth the price of admission. (2:47 – 4:22 in the video shows me doing the drop from two angles and then the slide from two angles and yes, I went back and got Billy.)

From here you make your way down through two, maybe three more white water sections. Two are just before the Highway 172 bridge. The first is called the Rooster Tail (4:25 – 5:25 in the video) and it’s a far right section that gives you another good taste of some good whitewater. There is also a nice little section just before the bridge (Billy ate it here as well) and then the final bit is just before the take-out. You see there are a few islands here and my thinking is, if you go right all along the river except for the two times I have listed above as going left, then you are going to have a blast.

I will definitely be going back up a few times this summer with some more video and hopefully some more pictures.


Now, for a few stills from the video as I was hitting the sections.








Thursday, March 13, 2014

Bull gator calls to lull you to sleep? We're onto something here...

SUNDAY – When we last left off our group, they were in the midst of a fierce battle against time and a horde of cold-blooded beasts encroaching upon their camp.

Just kidding. But that is kind of how this feels. We went to sleep Saturday night with the sounds of the swamp at full song – birds, gators, mosquitos the size of Chihuahuas. Friday night it wasn’t nearly as loud, I’m guessing because of the cold. But with the warmer weather, the swamp life woke up and that included the bull gators and their ominous, deep, throaty calls.

I’m not 100% sure when they stopped, but it had to be right around midnight or shortly thereafter. My guess is because it started to get chilly and while it wasn’t nearly as cold as the night before, it was definitely too cold for cold-blooded reptiles. Anyways, they continued to call to each other well into the night and the next morning we discovered how close they had come. There wasn’t really much evidence, but Bob claimed to have heard a splash near his tent. Sounded like about a six-footer according to him and Jeff and was enough to wake them both up. Bob says he sat there hoping Jeff aka “Swamp Man” would come barreling out of his tent to slay the beast… but no dice. Jeff was merely waiting for them to try to enter his tent for some snuggle time, and if that was the case he had a trusty knife waiting… like that was going to do much good. If a gator wants to snuggle with you, I have a feeling it’s kind of like the scene in “Without a Paddle” when the bear cuddles Seth Green’s character, Dan Mott. There’s not much you do except for lay there and sing “I’m all out of love” or something similar.

The evidence I mentioned was down from Bob’s tent where I found where the gator had slid from the bank and into the water, pushing down grass as he went. Yup. Pucker factor is about a 10 on that one I would say.

We also had another visitor who made it up onto the platform and apparently made an attempt at coming in to snuggle with Dad and me. Now, if you’ve ever done any form of camping you know the simple rules of putting your food away, usually up where even you have trouble reaching it because of raccoons. And sure enough, that is our guess for who our guest was. I heard him shuffling his little paws on the platform and when he bumped up against the tent, apparently dad gave him a light pop to send him on his way.

But we survived and of course, the morning was not a disappointment either. I woke up before sunrise, again, mostly because I heard Dave R. tearing down his tent and gear but also because I heard the sounds around me. The birds were at full song before the sun was even peaking over the trees. It’s really an awesome site to see the glass-like water and just silhouettes of trees.





Now, Dave R., Jeff and Dave S. were all up earlier than most of us because they had their hearts set on being the first ones to a barbeque joint in, I believe, Waycross, and they had all ridden together. And, of course because they were the first ones up and out every other morning, so why not today as well? This is also how we came to enter the swamp with 10 but come back with only 7 as I eluded to waaaaaaay back in the first post. But we saw them off and took our time eating our breakfasts and cleaning up because we technically had the platform until 10 and it wasn’t like housekeeping was going to come barging in to turn out our beds and such for the next guests.

During breakie, Bob, Dad, and I eyed the pond/prairie behind our campsite and talked about if we thought we could paddle back there. Not as in asking for permission but more along the lines of is the water deep enough for our boats. Dad and I decided that our boats were more than capable as long as we did it before loading them down with our gear and so we went head and gave it a try. It was a little difficult at first because there was a lot of reeds/grass, but once we got going, we realized there was certainly plenty of water.

And plenty of activity. As Dad and I paddled around we watched several birds flying into the swamp and this had me thinking back to the night before when I remembered seeing several groups of birds flying in the direction of the reserve’s entrance. Now this morning, they’re all coming back in. As if they punch a clock and head home each night and then come back like they work for the state. OK, Okefenokee Swamp and Georgia, I’m onto you and your tactics.

Anyways, Dad and I just aimlessly paddled around back there for a bit. I was honestly looking for the kingfisher from the day before because I wanted a better, more close up picture of him. And of course the whole time we’re keeping a close eye out for signs of gators because we KNOW they were here just the night before. While we didn’t see any kingfishers or gators we did see two more sandhill cranes fly in and land, more egrets, herons and such.










As I was trying to sneak up on one heron in particular, something flew pretty close overhead and as I looked up I realized it was a pileated woodpecker. So I quickly changed course and as I was turning I noticed something even bigger swooping in the opposite direction: another owl! Yes! I’m sorry if I’m overly excited, but how often do you honestly see owls in the wild? Take it from me as I have hiked all over Hitchcock Woods for the past few years to try to find them: I’ve only seen two in HW and I’ve spent way too much time in there.

Back to the owl, it took some maneuvering back around a clump of trees with Dad ahead of me, but I eventually got where I could see the owl better. And I have to say, that alone made our trek off the path worth it.





We eventually decided to head back to camp because we really did need to get packed up so we could head back to civilization.

As we did head in, I spent some time moving from the front to the back and up to the front of the group again. I was just taking it all in and I couldn’t help but mention to Dad a few times, as others had done before me, how great of a trip this was. On the one hand I’m sure he heard it way too many times, but hopefully he appreciated that we all had a blast.

Heading back the last 6.5 miles wasn’t terribly exciting from a story standpoint. Sure, Bernie ran over a smaller gator with his boat and sent it into a frenzy trying to escape him, but that was really about it. We all made sure to make a few jokes about Bernie possibly needing to change his pants. I know I would have had to after that.















As we got closer we started running into a few groups in canoes heading out into the swamp, including a semi-famous local celebrity. I didn’t know him or his name, but Dad recognized him from ETV or some local channel as he has done some segments on the swamp. He and his wife moved down here, fell in love with the area and have spent many years exploring and learning about the swamp. And he had two attractive ladies in another canoe in tow, explaining to them some facts about the swamp. Yup, you win “Most Interesting Man of the Swamp.”

The final send off out of the swamp for us was two hawks near the put-in/take-out area. It would appear as if the female kicked the male out of the nest as if to say, “I sit here and protect our young all day, every day now you go out and hunt!” Amazing how that is the same no matter the species, right?



So this brings this adventure to a close. I had a blast with our group even if it did start off under less than ideal conditions and I hope I can do something like this again. Dad has already started talking about trying the different areas of the park and I am really hoping we can pull that off. Kind of like doing the entire Edisto River in pieces, I would really like it if we could paddle the entire Okefenokee Swamp in pieces.

But, thanks for reading! Again, I’m hoping to keep this up for every paddle trip, no matter how big or small. Obviously, it’s going to be hard to compare to this trip, but knowing my group of friends who like to paddle and those who want me to take them out, I’m sure to have some more funny stories for y’all.

Oh, by the way, here are a few from the first day from the GoPro. I hope to have a video posted to YouTube soon!